Which Brush is Right for You? Plus Soaps, Razors & Everything Explained

Choosing Your Shaving Tools

A guide to brushes, soaps, razors, and technique—for those new to traditional wet shaving.

Wooden shaving brush with natural bristles and metal razor on a curved stand with wooden soap bowl

Why traditional wet shaving

Cartridge razors work. But multiple blades pulling across your skin, canned foam that dries out mid-shave, and expensive refills that get used past their prime—there's a better way.

Traditional wet shaving uses one sharp blade, natural soap that actually protects, and tools built to last decades. It costs less over time, produces less waste, and treats your skin better. The learning curve is real but short. Most people find their rhythm within a week.

Choosing a brush

The brush builds lather and lifts your whiskers for a cleaner cut. The bristle type determines feel, performance, and care requirements.

Set of shaving brushes with soft bristles and polished wooden handles Set of three shaving brushes with wooden handles in white, natural wood, and black

Synthetic bristle

High-quality fibres that work immediately—no break-in period. Dries quickly, travels well, requires minimal care. If you're unsure where to start, start here.

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Badger bristle — essentials grade

Natural hair with good water retention. Slightly firmer feel. Our essentials grade offers traditional performance at an accessible price. Requires proper drying between uses.

View essentials badger

Badger bristle — premium grade

Denser knot, softer tips with good backbone. Builds richer lather with less effort. The choice for daily shavers who've committed to the ritual.

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Badger bristle — luxury grade

Silver-tipped badger. Exceptionally soft with excellent spring. Creates the densest, most protective lather. A lifetime tool for those who want the best.

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On badger grades: The difference is bristle softness and density. Higher grades feel gentler on skin and hold more lather. All grades work well—it's a matter of preference and budget.

Understanding shaving soap

Canned foam is convenient but thin. It dries out during your shave and offers minimal protection. Artisan soap creates thick, stable lather that stays slick and actually conditions your skin.

Our soaps are made with coconut oil in small batches. They work with any brush type.

What good lather looks like

Thick and glossy, like meringue. It should hold peaks and not dissipate within seconds. If it's thin or bubbly, you need more soap or less water.

View our shaving soaps

Shaving bowls

Optional but useful. A bowl gives you space to build and store lather between passes. We make two types:

Timber bowls

Handturned from Australian hardwoods. Sized to fit our soap pucks precisely. Good weight, warm to hold, ages beautifully.

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Polymer bowls

3D printed from plant-based material. Larger diameter suits multiple methods. Lightweight, easy to clean, good for travel.

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Safety razors

The name exists for a reason—they were invented to be safer than straight razors. One blade means one clean cut, not multiple passes from a cartridge's three to five blades dragging across your skin.

WÖLFE 97 Double Edge Safety Razor Rose Gold Safety Razor

The adjustment period

Cartridge razors are forgiving. You can press hard and shave quickly because multiple blades compensate for poor technique. Safety razors require a lighter touch—let the weight of the razor do the work. Most nicks happen from pressing too hard, not from the blade itself.

Two designs

Butterfly (twist-to-open)

Doors open for easy blade loading. No loose parts. Good for beginners and travel.

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Three-piece

Handle, base plate, and cap separate completely. Easier to clean thoroughly. Traditional design.

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On blades: Safety razor blades cost cents, not dollars. Change them often—a fresh blade cuts cleaner and safer than a dull one you're pressing harder to compensate for.

Basic technique

Traditional wet shaving has a learning curve, but it's shorter than you'd expect. Here's the process:

Prepare

Shave after a hot shower, or wash your face thoroughly with warm water. Heat softens whiskers and opens pores. This matters more than any product.

Build lather

Wet your brush, shake out excess water, and work it across the soap using back-and-forth strokes. Continue until thick lather forms on the brush—usually 20 to 30 seconds. Add small amounts of water if needed.

Apply

Paint the lather onto your face using circular motions. The brush lifts whiskers and deposits a protective layer. Cover everything you plan to shave.

Shave

Hold the razor at roughly 30 degrees. Use short strokes. Let the razor's weight provide pressure—don't push. Shave with the grain first. Rinse the blade often.

Second pass (optional)

Re-lather completely. Shave across the grain for a closer result. A third pass against the grain is possible once you're comfortable, but most people find two passes sufficient.

Finish

Rinse with cool water to close pores. Pat dry. Rinse your brush thoroughly and store it bristles-down to air dry.

Complete kits

If you'd rather not choose individual pieces, our kits include everything matched to work together: brush, bowl, soap, razor, and stand.

Wooden shaving brush and bowl set with coconut fresh lime shave soap

Essentials kit

Synthetic brush, artisan soap, and stand. Everything needed to start, without the razor (if you already have one or want to choose separately).

View essentials kit

Complete kit

Badger brush, timber bowl, artisan soap, safety razor with blade sampler, and stand. The full setup.

View complete kit

Questions about which products suit your needs? Get in touch.

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